Garmisch-Partenkirchen: A Beer Hike and a Trip Up the Zugspitze
Introducing Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Down south in Bavaria the ice-blue lakes amid contoured hills collide with the rugged and craggy Karwendel and Wetterstein massifs, jagged peaks that are among Germany’s highest. The result: grand landscapes with verdant foothills and geranium-bedecked chalets against a backdrop of limestone giants.
In this landscape of contrasts criss-crossed by ancient trade routes, artisanal craftsmanship blossomed alongside a rural economy supported by the surrounding forests. To this day, Mittenwald is famous for its violins. Oberammergau is the birthplace of Lüftlmalerei (façade frescoes). And dramatically situated Garmisch-Partenkirchen, an urbane town firmly anchored in its rural surroundings, is the center of Werdenfelser Land.
Picturesque as it is, Garmisch-Partenkirchen is not a beer destination like Tegernsee or Traunstein. But a few new breweries have cropped up in the past decade, and the town’s also home to a vibrant Wirtshaus and tavern scene. You won’t be at a loss for places where you can relax with a beer after a day meandering through the countryside.
As for those meanderings, you could splurge on a ticket for the cogwheel railway and cable car that’ll whisk you to the top of the Zugspitze, or you could save the €78 and opt for hikes around Garmisch-Partenkirchen that afford views of the Zugspitze and the other peaks that make up the Wetterstein massif. There’s no shortage of choices for hiking routes.
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Kramerplateauweg: Out of Town and Back in Half a Day
Ideal for day-trippers, the Kramerplateauweg takes in historic sections of town, passes Alpine lakes, and affords stellar views over Garmisch. You’ll be back in town in time for an early dinner or your train back to Munich.
Start in the center of Garmisch at the church, wend your way across the Loisach in the direction of the Alte Pfarrkirche St. Martin and the Bräustüberl, then head west along Frühlingsstraße past charming chalets and old farmhouses. (You could, of course, stop off for your first beer of the day at Bräustüberl. It’s noon somewhere in the world.) Turn right on Kramerstrasse, then follow the signs to the Kramerplateauweg as the backstreets wind their way to the trail up.
Once you’ve reached the Kramerplateauweg, look for signs to Pflegersee, then follow the path as it twists north and northeast, keeping your eyes out for where the Kellerleitenweg leaves the Kramerplateauweg. From there, head north/northwest to Pflegersee with its views of the Kramerspitz. You could call in at the Berggasthof Pflegersee for a beer and a bite, or you could just have a snack on the banks of the Pflegersee before retracing your steps.
When you reach the junction point where you headed to Pflegersee, stay on the Kramerplateauweg as it heads southwest to Elch’s Almhütte (follow the signs toward Grainau). After about 10 minutes you’ll come to a footbridge over the Mittergernlaine, where the view across Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the peaks beyond is magnificent. From here it’s only another quarter hour to beers and food at Elch’s Almhütte. If the weather’s nice, make a beeline for a spot on the terrace for some splendid views to go with your beer.
Back in Town: The Loisach Promenade
Once you’ve had your fill of the view, head back down the hill to Garmisch, stopping every so often to take in the view. By now you’ve got a good half a day behind you. But there’s one last stretch you can do if you have the time: the charming Loisachuferweg that follows the Loisach upstream toward Grainau and the Zugspitze. Double back to Garmisch once you’ve reached the outskirts of town. Call it a beer hike by calling in at Brauhaus Garmisch to the northwest of Garmisch’s main square or the Brauerei Garmischer Hof near the center of the action.
And if that’s not enough to whet your whistle, check out my companion piece, Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Beer Among Germany’s Highest Peaks.
The Zugspitze
If you’d like to go up the Zugspitze (Germany’s highest peak) and hike around at the top, you’ll want to plan accordingly, especially if you’re visiting Garmisch-Partenkirchen for only a short time. Arrive early, or book your tickets in advance. They stop selling tickets on any given day if there are too many people on the mountain. The last trip up from Garmisch is at 2:15pm. The last trip DOWN by cable car leaves at 4:15pm in winter, and 5:15pm in summer. (My guess is you don’t want to miss the last cable car down.) The journey takes 75 minutes each way.
Combi tickets for the cogwheel railway and cable car to the top and back currently go for €78/person. The price might sound prohibitive, but this is one of those occasions when the spectacular views are worth the price of admission. There’s also plenty to eat and drink at the top — and the prices for that are, surprisingly, quite reasonable.
Hiking in the wintertime is limited (and watch out for the skiers and snowboarders blasting around). But you can always hike the 10 km to Garmisch-Partenkirchen from Eibsee at the base of the cable car or get off the cogwheel railway at Grainau and leisurely reel in the 7 km from there through the meadows. Don’t forget to look back periodically for beautiful views of the Zugspitze.
Pro Tips
*Since the prices are so high, don’t waste your money if the weather forecast isn’t great. €78 (and rising about €5 every year) is a fair chunk of change to lay out for a cloudscape.
*Don’t underestimate how cold it can get in winter, even on a sunny day. Windchills can numb your fingers in less than a minute while you’re taking selfies.
*Here’s the Zugspitze website with all the info you need to plan an excursion.
Related Posts
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Rothaus: Beer and Hiking in the Black Forest Heights
Pottenstein: Beer Hiking in the Heart of Franconian Switzerland
Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Beer Among Germany’s Highest Peaks
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All images by Franz D. Hofer
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