Tales of Beer Towns Underrated: Brno in the Czech Republic

 

Why Brno?

 

Hands up if you’ve ever been to Brno. For my part, I hadn’t until this past September, despite the fact that it’s only 1.5 hours from Vienna—practically on my doorstep these past ten years!

I’ve been more than a few times now, and I’m here to tell you (very quietly, lest the secret spread too far and wide) that Brno is one of the better-kept secrets of Czech and Central European beer culture.

Why? For one, its pubs rival those of Prague. For another, unlike many other Czech cities and towns, it’s not dominated by one or two brewing behemoths. Starobrno, the large hometown brewery, is as present as you’d expect, but there’s a whole host of beers from other local and regional breweries on offer across the city.

 

The Church of St. James, one of Brno's many steeples

 

Beyond that, Brno has all of the architectural wonders of any former Habsburg city, but also exudes the charm of smaller cities like Salzburg or Bruges. Brno is home to a number of modernist buildings as well, like Mies van der Rohe’s Villa Tugendhat. And the café culture is right up with the best of them, with spots on every second corner inviting you to spend a few hours reading your favourite Czech author over a flat white before you hit the pubs.

 

**

Subscribe to my Beerscapes Newsletter for more on the fascinating world of beer culture, along with travel tips about where to find the best beer experiences in Europe and beyond.

**

 

More Than One Way to Say Pub

 

Okay, I’m done reading and caffeinating. Time for all those hospoda, pivnice, and hostinec! (With apologies to any Czech speakers in the crowd, I don’t know how to write the plural of these establishments.)

 

Pivo & Syn, beer in Brno

 

Pivo & Syn

There’s something about this place, a certain je ne sais quoi. Maybe it’s the cool grey-black octagonal floor. Maybe it’s the sole hunting trophy mounted on the wall of this otherwise unadorned space. Maybe it’s the slightly rough-and-tumble regulars that take up residence at the bar right after opening. Maybe it’s the subdued lighting, even in the afternoon when the sun slants through the windows, that kind of “in praise of shadows” play of light and shade.

Or maybe it all boils down to the ampersand.

Kamenice 10º and 12º beers are on tap, along with Pilsner Urquell. The Kamenice 10º is clean as a whistle, and, with its subtle dusting of peppery Saaz hops swirled together with a chalky minerality, vibrantly refreshing.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention my new pub food of choice here, the delicious jednohubka. These are baguette rounds stacked with a variety of toppings ranging from cheese to pickles to sausage. You’ll see them prominently displayed under a glass dome at the bar.

 

Food and beer at Pivo & Syn, Brno

 

Hospoda U Všech Svatých

Just southwest of the center, this tavern named for saints and salvation is one of those places that only an indefatigable pub hunter like Jack Anderton of the European Bar Guide could turn up. It’s solidly local, and I get the sense when we arrive that we’re the only non-Czechs for several blocks around.

Religious motifs line the walls of these wood-paneled rooms with low arches, yet it’s not a place that takes itself too seriously. If you look closely at the mural rendition of the Last Supper, all the apostles but one are drinking Czech brands. Judas is drinking Heineken.

If you need another reason to wander down the steps and into this neighbourhood just beyond the city center, U Všech Svatých serves beer from Pivovar Poutník. Fine place for a beer or three.

 

"The Last Supper" at U Všech Svatých

 

Hostinec U Bláhovky

A shrine to Pilsner Urquell, Bláhovky even has a commendation from the brewery naming it as one of the best places in the Czech Republic to drink this most famous of pilsners. As if to underscore the point, the tap master wears an Urquell-emblazoned leather apron.

But those stellar pours served up by the efficient barkeeps aren’t the only reason to visit. Its wood-paneled interior with a bright front bar and a brooding back room make it a classic, no-nonsense Czech pub. Foodwise, Bláhovky is famous for its roasted pork knuckle, and the hermelín (soft cheese) pickling away in jars near the bar is top-notch.

Bláhovky fills up quickly, so arrive at the stroke of noon if you want a seat. Otherwise, join folks outside for an impromptu gathering.

 

Barkeeps at U Bláhovky

 

U Alberta

Conveniently situated on the walk up to the Špilberk Castle, this blue-trimmed house nestled amid the ash trees feels like a village local, one spruced up with contemporary touches like bottle lampshades. Sit on the terraced hillside on sunny days and balmy evenings, or head inside and warm up next to the wood-burning stove when the temperatures dip.

Regardless of the season, set yourself down with a Salina 11º, a beer named after the local word for tram. It’s one of the more “classically Czech” beers among the ones I tried in Brno, splitting the difference between Budvar and Urquell. (Albert Kočorný Pivovar is the local brewery behind the beers, and also offers craft styles like IPA and smoked porter.)

 

Up the hill to U Alberta

 

Pivnice Na Solnici

Sleek lines that recall Czech modernist architecture. Decorative touches that evoke the work of the Wiener Werkstätte. Soft wood tones that wouldn’t be out of place in any Wirtshaus. Lightbulbs hanging from a spaghetti of wires, a nod to our contemporary moment. Is it a restaurant that focuses on beer? Is it a chic tavern with fine food? I’ll leave that for you to decide. Regardless, this spot smack-dab in the center of town dishes up delectables alongside the star of the show: Dalešické Pivo. This is a brewery whose beers are worth a look.

 

Na Dobré Cestě

Tucked into the ground floor of an opulent nineteenth-century building, Na Dobré Cestě is anything but lavish. In fact, the interior is rather spare, with blotted whitewash thinly applied, light bulbs hanging from wires, and walls lined with empty picture frames.

Spare but not spartan. A flood of sunlight, the warming tones of the wishbone floor, and an old-fashioned sewing machine gracing one of the tables soften the atmosphere. So do the enthusiastic young staff and the old dog making the rounds.

For my tastes, the studied minimalism works well in tandem with the youthful energy of the place. However you respond to the pubs aesthetics (my drinking companion found the empty frames akin to empty gestures), it’s worth knowing that Na Dobré Cestě serves beers from the superb Dalešické Pivo.

 

Na Dobré Cestě in Brno

 

Pegas

Open since 1992, this beerhall was the first microbrewery in Moravia. A few steps from Náměstí Svobody (Freedom Square) with its rocket-shaped atomic clock, it doesn’t get more central than this.

The folks behind Pegas have made good use of their centuries-old building, wedging a copper brew kit into their beerhall adorned with white-washed arches and narrow-beamed ceilings. Dark wood rings the cavernous hall, while hop garlands work in tandem with vintage beer signs to spice up the place.

When I arrived after the lunch rush, Pegas was still three-quarters full with families finishing their meals, friends catching up over beers, and tourists taking a break from sightseeing. Before long I was sipping on Pegas’s Speciál Gold, a rich and slightly sweet polotmavé (amber) that, while not stellar, was pleasant enough. And it paired very well with the svíčková na smetaně, a classic Czech dish featuring braised beef in a creamy root vegetable sauce seasoned with baking spices.

 

If You Still Have Time

That’s just a handful of the dozens of places for a beer in Brno. If the places I’ve introduced above haven’t left you sated, here are a few more. Some beer folks familiar with Brno might not relegate these taverns to the end of the list, but I found them less compelling than the other places I’ve visited so far. That’s not to say they aren’t worth seeking out. And who knows? Maybe they’ll grow on me at some point.

Begin or end your Brno imbibing adventures at Pivnice U Poutníka in the center of town. The pub itself looked a bit forlorn when I peeked in, mainly because it was a sunny day and everyone was drinking in the alley outside. But that Poutník beer? Fine stuff, and well worth a pit stop, even if the pub isn’t firing on all cylinders when you visit.

 

Poutnik, a beer worth seeking out

 

A brochure about beer and pubs in Brno describes U Kuby as a “beloved corner institution [that] represents authentic local heritage, [a place] where generations have gathered.” People were, indeed, gathered there when we visited, and it’s plenty lively. But the hand of a recent renovation has left the place curiously anodyne.

To the north of the city, just beyond the greenery of Lužánky Park, is U Míče. The place is decorated with sports balls and banknotes from the world over. It’s a kind of locals’ sports bar, yet it doesn’t have the feel of a sports bar (which is a plus in my books). Hockey was playing when we sat down to our smooth and easy-drinking pints from Beskydský Pivovárek.

 

Last Call

A tip o’ the ole hat to Jack Anderton of the European Bar Guide, an indispensable guide to all things pubs in Europe. Jack was kind enough to show me some of his Brno faves during my first visit to the city last fall.

 

Na Solnici, Brno
Na Solnici

 

Related Posts

Prague Revisited: Taverns and Taprooms in the City of a Hundred Spires

A Pivo Pilgrimage to Pilsen

Pictures at a Czech Beer Exhibition: Pilsen, Budweis, Český Krumlov

 

Brno City Hall

 

© 2026 Franz D. Hofer and A Tempest in a Tankard. All rights reserved.



Share your thoughts

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.