The Brauereienweg, Franconia’s Original Beer Hiking Trail

Secluded Forests and Rolling Hills in Franconian Switzerland

Bamberg is the epicenter of Franconian beer, but hidden gems await the wanderer willing to plunge into the verdant landscape of Franconian Switzerland, a region that owes its name to its scenic landscape of rolling hills, enchanting rock formations, and narrow valleys. Hiking trails cross-cross the region, and many will take you to breweries, beer gardens, and Wirtshäuser (inns). In fact, several of these paths in this walker’s paradise between Bamberg, Nürnberg, and Bayreuth are well-marked beer hiking trails.

The Brauereienweg (Brewery Path)

One such trail is the Brauereienweg, the brewery path that inspired numerous other communities in the region to create their own brewery trails. Most of these rambles average between 12 and 18 kilometers and wouldn’t take you more than a day to complete, including pitstops for beer and food. But since you probably want to spend some time in the small breweries and inns along the way, consider booking a room for a night or two in one of the region’s several brewery guesthouses.

Brauereigasthof Rothenbach marks the starting point of the well-posted Brauereienweg, which takes you to four different breweries in the town of Aufseß and its surrounding hamlets. With a population of 1500 lucky souls and four breweries, Aufseß boasts the highest number of breweries per capita anywhere in the world — that’s one brewery for every 375 inhabitants. Fortify yourself before setting off from Aufseß with a toasty amber-coloured Zwickl at Rothenbach and, if it’s in season, a plate of Spargel (white asparagus). The Nürnberg-style Bratwurst is also a tasty way to build up your energy reserves for the hike.

Beyond Aufseß

The trail leaves the town of Aufseß proper and follows a stream up a shaded valley before ascending through a dense copse and past craggy rock formations. Five kilometers later you’ll come across Brauereigasthof Stadter in the hamlet of Sachsendorf. There, the loquacious innkeeper will regale you with stories about the region while serving up the house special, an amber-bronze Landbier that tastes like a cross between a lighter-weight Märzen and an Altbier.

From Sachsendorf, the trail sweeps through the woods and past gently undulating fields before descending into the hamlet of Hochstahl. Brauerei Reichold in Hochstahl used to be an ideal place to fuel up with Franconian dishes based on generations-old recipes, but unfortunately the pandemic was the proverbial straw that broke the camel’s back. The Wirtshaus (inn) closed in November 2020, but the brewery is still going. As a special bonus for beer hikers, word has it that the proprietors open up their Wirtshaus on Saturdays to serve their beer, so try to time your hike for a Saturday. Go for their rich Zwickl to replenish your electrolytes.

If you aren’t in the area on a Saturday, fear not. It’s but a few kilometers from Hochstahl to Heckendorf and Kathi-Bräu, a brewery that has built up a cult following among motorcyclists. Find yourself a place to relax in the beer garden if the weather’s nice. Otherwise, join the locals in the cozy taproom. I was lucky enough to get my hands on a mug of dunkles Bockbier — among the best I’ve had.

A Feast to End the Day (You’ve Earned It!)

Not much farther away through some woods and down a hill is the town of Aufseß where you started your hike. Its ensemble of medieval fortress tower, Romanesque church, and baronial palace looming over the Brauereigasthof Rothenbach is particularly impressive at sunset.

Finish it all off with any of the fine dishes served up at Rothenbach and a Dunkel or copper-bronze Festbier to wash it down. (Yes, copper-bronze. Contrary to popular belief here in North America, not all Festbier looks and tastes like the beer at Oktoberfest.) I went for the Press-sack Brotzeit Teller, a local specialty consisting of three kinds of head cheese, liverwurst, and a Landjäger-style smoked sausage.

You won’t leave the table hungry — and you’ll sleep well.

Notes

• At the end of your journey you’ll get a certificate recognizing you as an “honourary Franconian beer drinker.”
• Getting to these places without a car is half the fun. Train service is sparse, and regional buses may only run once or twice per day to your destination, sometimes not on weekends. Plan ahead and make ample use of German-speaking friends if you can’t speak German.
• Despite having to close their Wirtshaus, the folks at Brauerei Reichold still operate a bed and breakfast (Pension), making it a fine alternative to the Rothenbach guesthouse in the town of Aufseß proper.

Postscript

Long-time readers might recognize this piece as a portion of my first-ever post on beer hiking, “Will Walk for Beer: Franconian Brews Beyond Bamberg.” That post also included notes about Forchheim and its famous Kellerwald (beer cellar forest), which diluted the focus somewhat. With more and more people I know or meet asking me about beer hikes, I thought it fit to repost this in slightly altered form as a standalone article. Check out the other articles in the “Related Posts” just below for more beer hiking ideas. Happy trails!

Related posts

The Fünf-Seidla-Steig: Beer Hiking in Bavaria’s Franconian Switzerland

Of Zoigl and Primeval Forests: Beer Hiking in the Oberpfalz

Breweries and Beer Hikes in Murnau

Ales and Windswept Trails Near Edinburgh

Pottenstein: Beer Hiking in the Heart of Franconian Switzerland

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All images by F.D. Hofer.

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