Intellectual Ferment of a Different Kind
An Upper Bavarian Idyll Rays of sunshine pierced the clouds above the marshlands of Murnau as the train trundled along the Loisach valley. As we dipped into the basin that cradles Oberammergau, the sun emerged in full splendour, illuminating the tusk-shaped Kofel that …
Of Salt and Spas The first thing I’ll say about Bad Reichenhall in the southeastern tip of Bavaria is that I was pleasantly surprised. I’ve never been one for spa towns, and have left places like Bad Ischl in Austria and Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad) …
We arrived in Murnau to a golden autumn afternoon perfect for wandering through this landscape famed for its light and colours. Since all good beer hikes need a certain beverage to make them what they are, we made straight for the shimmering Staffelsee lake …
I’d passed through Traunstein several times on trains between Vienna and Munich and had always been struck by the beauty of its surroundings. The picturesque region is a place of flower-bedecked meadows, old wooden farmhouses, and cows grazing languidly in emerald fields. Situated amid …