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Tübingen: Beer on the Black Forest’s Doorstep

Tübingen: Beer on the Black Forest’s Doorstep

  Nestled amid leafy-green hills cradling the Neckar River, Tübingen is a mere thirty kilometers from Stuttgart but centuries closer to the Black Forest. Timber and stucco houses line the market squares where folks gather in cafes to while away the afternoon. Escher-esque lanes and 

Mittenwald: A Brewery and a Beer Hike in the Alps

Mittenwald: A Brewery and a Beer Hike in the Alps

  Introducing Mittenwald   It was September 1786. Goethe had just left Munich on his way to the Brenner Pass, where he would cross into Italy and remain for two years. The stagecoach called at Mittenwald, a market town along the ancient road from Verona 

The Munich Baker-Brewer Dispute: Yeast and the Emergence of Lager

The Munich Baker-Brewer Dispute: Yeast and the Emergence of Lager

  A Tectonic Shift   At first blush, the Munich Baker-Brewer Dispute might look like a curious footnote in the annals of medieval history.[1] But it’s much more than that. Flaring up sporadically between 1481 and 1517, this inter-guild dispute is not only a colourful 

Altbier All Day in Düsseldorf

Altbier All Day in Düsseldorf

  Introducing Düsseldorf   Düsseldorf is only about forty-five minutes from Cologne by train — so close, yet in beer miles so far away. Düsseldorf and Cologne are unique: ale strongholds amid a sea of German lager. Yet these two “keepers of the ale faith” 

Ambling for Beer in Oberammergau and Kloster Ettal

Ambling for Beer in Oberammergau and Kloster Ettal

  An Upper Bavarian Idyll   Rays of sunshine pierced the clouds above the marshlands of Murnau as the train trundled along the Loisach valley. As we dipped into the basin that cradles Oberammergau, the sun emerged in full splendour, illuminating the tusk-shaped Kofel that 

Beers I Like, and Why

Beers I Like, and Why

  Accounting for My Tastes in Beer It’s axiomatic that we drink what we like. But what shapes our tastes? And how do we account for our tastes in beer? In the first part of these reflections, I considered taste on a general level before 

Accounting for My Tastes in Beer

Accounting for My Tastes in Beer

  In between evenings of losing myself in my annual “big book” (Don Quixote this year), I’ve been reading Terry Theise’s What Makes Wine Worth Drinking: In Praise of the Sublime. Theise makes a compelling case that people who write about wine or who sell 

Among Giants: Beer Hiking in Saxon Switzerland

Among Giants: Beer Hiking in Saxon Switzerland

  Prelude I was up at daybreak and on the trail early for this, one of the most fascinating and challenging beer hikes I’ve ever done. I’d arrived in Bad Schandau from Dresden the previous afternoon, spending the rest of that short but sunny November