Belgian Beer Café Vignettes: ’t Brugs Beertje, Bruges

Bruges is Brussels’ alter ego. Swans floating languidly on canals, quiet cobblestone lanes, and magnificent Flemish architecture add up to a far cry from the gritty bustle of Brussels. But in things beer, the two cities are equals. Bruges boasts a few breweries and dozens of beer cafes, some of them world-class establishments like the ethereal Vlissinghe and the classy De Garre.

Perhaps the most famous of these beer cafes is ’t Brugs Beertje, “The Little Bear of Bruges.” Legendary for its hundreds of Belgian beers, this cozy brown cafe is filled with beer travelers and locals seemingly part of the surroundings. It’s one of those places where you’ll go for the beer but stay for the atmosphere. And you won’t be the only one. Convivial patrons of all ages crowd into the lively seating by the front windows to while away the afternoon and evening in conversation. If you can’t find a seat there, head to the dimly lit back room with its soothing dark wood fittings and patterned walls covered with beer placards and street signs.

Aside from the buzz of conversation, one of the first things you’ll notice when you step inside the Beertje is the myriad glasses hanging above the bar like a forest of stalactites, a sure sign that the place takes the art of beer presentation seriously.

What started as a hundred-strong beer list when the “Little Bear” opened its doors in 1983 quickly evolved into a veritable compendium of beers some three hundred strong — one of the most well-rounded lists in Belgium. The selection runs the gamut from Belgian standards to plucky brewers who have taken a page out of the craft beer playbook.

If you don’t have time to visit other parts of Belgium, no problem: the beer list is organized by province, and then reorganized by style at the back of the menu. And if the task of selecting that perfect beer seems daunting, the knowledgeable staff can help you out.

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A few beers

Founded in 2013 and located 10 km southeast of Bruges, Vliegende Paard (Flying Horse) has made quite a splash with its beers released under the Préaris label. Their experimental lineup changes often, so take the plunge with whatever you happen to find. On a recent visit to the Beertje I had the Smokey Li, a hefty amber-orange beer brewed with Lapsong Suchong tea. Redolent of scotch-like wood smoke and medicinal notes layered over caramel malt, this intriguing beer offers up cherry-wood fruitiness mid-palate, finishing with a distinctive Islay accent. (One Tankard)

Another fine choice is the Cuvée Soeur’ise Oak-Aged Tripel Kriek. Brewed by Brouwerij De Leite (founded 2008) in Ruddervoorde, about 15 km south of Bruges, this beer the colour of watermelon was a revelation. Cuvée Soeur’ise combines subtle “horse barn” Brett notes with maraschino cherry, hazelnut, marzipan, and a beguiling vanilla-oak character on the nose, unloading a charge of tart cherry laced with fresh hay, vanilla, and a tannic nuttiness on the palate. (Two Tankards)

More Beer Cafés in Bruges and Beyond

When you’re done at the Beertje, head over to a few of these fine places, or get on a train and check out what Ghent or Antwerp has to offer. Cheers!

Belgian Beer Café Vignettes: Café Vlissinghe, Bruges

Belgian Beer Café Vignettes: De Garre, Bruges

Imbibing Beer and Flemish Splendour in Ghent

Beer Cafes and Bollekes: Beer for a Day in Antwerp

Photo Captions

• With its step-gabled brick façade, the Beertje looks like it has been there forever, but the “Little Bear” only appeared on the Bruges beer scene in 1983. The building itself dates back to 1632.
• A timeless establishment in many senses of the word, a place for all ages.
• I haven’t tested this theory yet, but I think the Beertje has proper glassware for every beer on their epic menu.
• White Dragon, another in the long line of offerings from Vliegende Paard. Once a Belgian Golden Strong Ale of 7.5% ABV, the beer has since morphed into a White IPA clocking in at 8%.
  
• No, this wasn’t an accidental photo snapped after one too many beers. If you don’t already do this when you visit pubs, beer cafes, and taprooms, look up (and down). The floors in many of these places are pretty cool.

For the story about how “The Little Bear of Bruges” got its name, subscribe to my quarterly Beerscapes Newsletter, where you’ll find plenty on the fascinating world of beer culture, along with travel tips about the best beer experiences in Europe and beyond.

All images by Franz D. Hofer

© 2021 Franz D. Hofer and A Tempest in a Tankard. All rights reserved.